When 44 opened it made quite a splash in the Essex eating out scene.
Promising
something completely
different to the regular dinner date
experience; 44 is not just the name
and street number of the restaurant but
also the number of dishes on its menu
and the number of cocktails on its list. I
must admit to being somewhat wary of
restaurants too overt in the promotion of a
theme, but having heard wonderful things
about the food I thought it high time I
visited the numerically themed restaurant
and lounge, to do the maths myself.
Set over two floors, 44 offers both a chic cocktail lounge and a dining room behind its unassuming black double doors. Surprisingly welcoming for a place with such high brow dining pretensions, we were greeted upon our arrival by the owner Geraldine Roche who was as pleasant and bubbly as the peach Bellinis we ordered. When dining at 44, you have the choice between the tasting menu, which consists of lots of little dishes, and a menu of more traditionally sized dishes. Wanting to experience 44 in its full glory we opted for the taster menu.
The focus of 44 is very much on the food. But that is what you would expect from a restaurant whose head chef, Frederick Forster came third in the prestigious ’Knorr Chef Of The Year’ competition last year. A huge achievement for this young ambitious chef and the best advert for the quality of cooking one can expect at 44. As the first course arrived it became clear that 44’s claim of applying a Michelin star approach had not been just empty words.
The food was an absolute delight. For each course, flavours were perfectly balanced, texture combinations were well thought out and presentation made the meal as much a feast for the eyes as for the mouth. What really marks 44 out as a cut above other ‘concept’ dining establishments is its attention to detail. For instance, knowing that that we had quite a few courses to get through, no single dish was too heavy or starchy, so to influence your enjoyment of the next. I suppose you could describe it as always leaving you wanting more, but as I finished off the last spoonful of my absolutely scrumptious crème brûlée, there is no way you could describe me as anything less than sated and my tummy as anything less than full. It is true that 44 is an unusual restaurant, but in the best possible way.
The menu is innovative and novel, but what allows 44 to be such a success is the simple fact that the food is superb. The combination of taster plates and dangerously enjoyable cocktails makes it the ideal place for a girly night out or a romantic evening for two that is a touch more interesting than your local bistro. More than anything else 44 should be lauded for trying something new, and making such a success of it.
Genuine innovation within dining, outside of London, is a rare and wonderful thing that I personally hope to see more of. Those are just a few reasons to book yourself a table at 44, but I am sure if you pressed me I could come up with 44 more.
44 Restaurant & Lounge,
44 Taste Sensations
44 High Street,
Hornchurch,
Essex
RM12 4UN
T.
01708 44 1231
www.restaurant44.co.uk
